CSC Candle Care and Trouble Shooting

Before you email - PLEASE READ!

There are a few things you need to know about using wood wick/100% soy wax candles and to make the process easier to understand, please read the following tips, tricks, and very important information to make your CSC candles an enjoyable experience.

If you cannot get your candle to light, please know - THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH IT.

A wood wick requires a little extra work to get going.

Are you ready for the first light?

The single most important burn of them all!  The first burn requires the most tender loving care, attention, and above all else - time!  Your wood wick candle  will perform its best and burn for over 40 hours (on an 8 ounce candle) with the right attention.  As you prep for your first burn - be sure you have the time required (at least 3-4 hours) to create the proper liquid melt pool.  Failing to create a proper melt pool will damage your candle and will cause future tunneling which in turn prevents the lighting and/or re-lighting of your candle.  It is also important that you do not have your wood wick candle under a ceiling fan or in a drafty/breezy place as this will contiuously blow out your candle. 

Prepare your candle.

Part of the handmade process is that all wicks are not going to be cut exactly the same.  It is important to have your wick trimmed to 1/8".  Once you have made sure the wick is at 1/8" - tilt your candle to the side just a bit and hold your lighter (fire) to the wick for roughly 20 seconds.  

Does a candle have memory?

Yes, absolutley!  The memory of your candle is determined upon that all-too important - first burn.  If you do not allow your candle to burn the suggested time (at least 3-4 hours) this will cause your candle to blow out and/or not re-light.  Your candle will essentially cause a tunnel that will prevent the wick from drawing up fuel (wax) and also prevent the fire from obtaining oxygen (to breath) - all of which is essential in properly burning your candle. Please keep in mind that the wick is not the fuel for the flame - the wax is.  The wax draws up the wooden wick and fuels the flame.

Your wooden wick won't light!

Wooden wicks require an entirely different set of instructions for lighting and staying lit than other wicks.  It is very normal for wood wicks to go out on the first light or have trouble catching the flame initially.  Try again!  Why does it do this. The wood wick needs the draw the wax up as a fuel source and needs the fire (lighter) held on it longer while it pulls the wax up to the top. A lighter is the best way to light your wood wick - not a match.

What is a proper melt pool?

Once you have set aside the time to allow your candle to burn - light your wood wick.  Once lit, leave it!  LEAVE IT ALONE.  Allow your candle to burn and create a pool of melted wax on the top layer of the candle that spreads completely to the edges of the vessel (tin or glass) - this may take up to 2 hours to achieve.  After a significant melt pool has formed, it is ok to blow out your candle.  If you do not allow the melt pool to form, tunneling will eventually happen and oxygen will not be able to reach the flame and wick and this will prevent your candle from burning evenly and will burrow down the center of the candle.  

Failing to follow instructions.

So, now you have a candle that won't re-light and you are wondering what you are going to do about it.  Fixing a candle that was not properly burned can be tricky but try these suggestions.

Scoop or scrape out all wax that is above the wick until it is just below the top of the remaining wick.  Don't throw away that wax - it is still scented wax and you can drop it into a melter or warmer and still enjoy the fragrance.

Trim the blackened (dead) wood from your wood wick.  Dead wood does not burn and therefore will not re-light.

But wait - my candle has a big hole in it!  Easy, easy - this too can be fixed!   It is nearly impossible to see a hole under the surface when pouring a candle and equally impossible to test each candle before shipping as they would no longer be new candles!  When handpouring all-natural candles, air can get trapped within the wax itself and the top can solidify over it - this is called a tunnel.  When you light the wick it will burn for a few seconds melting the wax around the candle to reveal a hole underneath the surface.  If your candle is no longer lit, using a heat gun or a hair dryer - you can even use a lighter (non-electric) to melt the surface wax so that it fills in that hole.  NEVER add wax melts or tarts as they are not the same wax and will ruin your candle.  Your wick needs the wax around it to fuel the flame.  Always light the wooden wick where the wax meets the wick.

Reset that memory!  This time you will have to let your candle burn for approximately 3 hours!  Yes, 3 hours.  You now have to reset the memory for that particular wick and wax and yes - still create that melt pool to the edge of the tin/glass.  


The flip side of not allowing your candle to burn long enough will be letting your candle burn for too long!  Allowing your candle to burn too long will cause too deep of a melt pool and will "drown" your wick.  If this happens - take a paper towel and touch it into the melted wax.  The paper towel will draw out/absorb the extra wax and may help your wick to breath again.  

We take candles seriously!

I am proud to say that I have been making candles for well over 20 years! I pride myself in providing the best candle ingredients possible.  Confectionery Soaps Co. candles have been tested repeatedly.  Every new candle scent is tested 6 times in various vessels, room space, dye, and of course - fragrance.  All CSC candles are randomly tested to ensure quality as well as intentionally trying to duplicate issues that would prevent you from enjoying your candle.  CSC is always testing and retesting wicks, fragrances, and wax to make sure we are always offering you the very best!